Sewing Japanese

As some of you know, I love Japanese pattern books, especially those with modern patterns aimed at little girls.  The excitement in purchasing almost any Japanese craft book is the anticipation of its arrival, the fact that you don't know (despite a small preview of several patterns) exactly what you might get and the subsequent day-dreaming after it arrives.  They are very inspiring, but they can be quite pricey and often have to be shipped from Japan.  

As a result, I've been frequenting Japanese Craft Journal, a blog that reveals snippets of the Japanese Crafting world.  I was intrigued by these patterns blogged about on Japanese Craft Journal.  They can be bought one at a time, not in a book, which doesn't lighten the wallet quite so much.  Even though the surprise factor is gone, these patterns are so sweet.

Feedsack and Linen Cuff Pants

My latest idea.  I'm tired of doing just linen, just neutral colors, long pants.  I haven't really jump off the edge and do something new and unique in fear that I am wasting the precious little time I spend with my sewing machine.  I almost always stick to something reliable that I know will turn out.

Sunday night I threw it all out the window in hopes of finding a unique and original pair of pants.  I remembered my collection of feedsacks just sitting in the closet collecting dust and decided to combine them with linen to make an irresistibly cute and versatile pair of pants that can be worn almost year round.  The cuff is double-sided so it can flip up to make a pair of capri pants or worn down for a pair of longer pants - each way showcasing the strip of feedsack.  

I took a pattern for pants that I liked and tried to cut them to capri length.  Ripping and sewing at least twice at every seam.  I don't know if I cut them wrong of if my attempt to make them crop pants threw the whole pattern off.  I don't really know.  But when I attempted to sew the inner leg seams one side of the seam was much longer that the other, didn't meet at the crotch and was totally twisted.

Out of frustration, I ripped the seams and recut the edges so the crotch and legs could actually be sewn together without the twisting.  I couldn't believe they turned out the way they did - and I'm happy almost with them.  They are completely different from the pattern I started with so I guess I can say they're originals.  Just a few tweaks here and there.  Now to reproduce them since I didn't retrace the pattern after the last cuts.  The photo below is with the cuff folded up to capri length.

If all goes well, I plan to start offering these pants in the shop  soon made with a variety of feedsacks that are shown in the first photograph - my collection of lucky thrift store feedsack finds.  I'm glad I finally get to use them.

Online Suppliers of Natural Fabrics

I wrote a post like this for my old blog, String and Scissor, and thought I'd do an updated list for natural fabrics (cotton, wool, linen, bamboo, etc.) along with a list of stores where you can buy organic fabrics.  I've also noted if the shop is PayPal friendly for all of you with Etsy shops who have a balance burning holes in your pockets.

I will continuously update this list.  If you have any suggestions or additions, please let me know by commenting.

LINEN: 

Linnet  (PayPal) $29 per half-yard for most linen.  This is a Japanese business;  I've linked to the English website.  I LOVE to look, but its a bit too pricey for me.  They have a beautiful selection of every kind of linen fabric, trim, and notions I can think of.  Fabrics in a variety of weights.  I love the simplicity of this site and its fabrics.

fabrics-store.com (PayPal) $5-$9 per yard.  Solids and yarn-dyed.  Pure linen, linen/cotton blends in a number of thicknesses.  

trimfabric.com  (PayPal) $5-$20 per yard.  The ~$5 per yard linen is a blend of Linen/Rayon/Polyester; $10 per yard for pure linen; Above 

$10 for Italian or Import Linen.  They even have cotton/linen jersey.

SIMPLY DESIGNED COTTONS (you have to check these out):

Nani Iro  from Kokko Fabrics:

Photo:  Nani Iro 2008 Collection

Japanese double gauze cottons, Linen canvas, cotton double-knits, among others in the most interesting prints.   Also look under the "sewing" header to find the best free patterns I've ever seen.  You may have to get Google to translate the page.  

(too) Easily found at:  PurlSoho  SuperBuzzy   Reprodepot.com 

Tana Lawn Collection from Liberty of London 

Photo:  Purl Soho Liberty of London Tana Lawn Collection

From England, some of the finest cotton available in beautifully stunning prints.  I don't know of many places in the states that carry it, but you can get it both in the brick and mortor store and online at Purl Soho.

Shinzi Katoh  

Photo:  Shinzi Katoh

A Japanese zakka designer, he has the cutest line of cotton fabrics (and almost everything else from table wear to aluminum bottles) bearing his illustrations.  His designs come in cotton cloth, laminated, knit, canvas, and quilted yardage.  He also has a line of fabric tape.  Some fabrics and a good selection of linen tape available  SuperBuzzy.   You can also check various sellers on Etsy by typing in Shinzi Katoh as a key word. 

ORGANICS:

Near Sea Naturals  (PayPal) $11-$114 per yard.  This is another store I wish I could afford.  They've got a wide selection of cotton, wool, and natural blends in knits and wovens and in several weights.  They also have organic elastic banding, trims, lace, and yarn.

Harmony Arts  Wholesalers of organic woven and knit cotton.  Great patterns and matching solids.

Wholesale and Discount Buying:

Trimfabric.com

Near Sea Naturals

Pants

My three-and-a-half year old decided to dress himself today.  He's never shown any interest in self-dressing before, so I haven't made him do it.  He had no problem with the shirt, but the pants...  

This afternoon, in his room by himself, he took every pair of pants he had out of the closet, made a pile in the living room and tried on each on very methodically.  Most were backwards at first, then the waist band scrunched up around his belly.  And then all at once, he got it.  He has hit a milestone:  learning to put on one's own pants.

I've been wanting to come up with a few designs for the store that I can reproduce in several sizes.  So far I've had no luck finding a template for pants.  By template I mean that I like to find a pattern I can use just for sizing, but alter it until its sufficiently different.  

So far, I've failed miserably.  The monologue in my head is decidedly negative.  Etsy sales are miserably slow and I don't have any "signature" items I offer consistently in the shop.  Everything is a unique item that I don't feel like making again.  I see other shops selling the cutest kids clothes - at least a few items a day - everyday and it really gets me that I haven't been able to do it myself.

But today, like my son, I hit a milestone.  Finally, a pair of pants I like that I don't mind reproducing.  I am finally confident that I can reliably and consistently reproduce a design that actually appeals to me.   Although I used a pattern for a template, it was altered to make a new size and slightly new style.  

Even better, I have corrected my sizing problem.  The first time I make something, I always shoot for a 2T because I can try it out on Liv.  Lately though everything I make has been turning out too big.   OK, I don't really measure my seam allowances and err on the side of too big so she can grow into things.  This time I "eye-balled" it and then decreased it to what I thought was too small *POOF*  it fits.

Also on the pants front, Liv learned to take off her own pants.  Something I really don't want her to do, but a milestone for her none the less.

Nani Iro's Free Patterns

Some time ago, I added Nani Iro to my "places I wish I could shop list" for two reasons.  First, the fabric is gorgeous.  Second, free patterns!  The link takes you to patterns for mainly kid's clothes, adult clothes, and accessories like bags.  

I like to look at patterns to see how the clothes get their shape and how they are sewn together.  It can start to see how a certain shape produces a specific result.  That said, Nani Iro's patterns are generally one page and leave a lot of steps un-illustrated which, unless you can read japanese, means you have to "fill in the blanks" so to speak.  

There are no full sized patterns, so you have to have a lot of time to draw out a full-sized pattern based on take-off points.  You also need knowledge of basic garment construction and be able to follow schematics.  I think I'd brave it for those cute little bloomers, but I'd hardly have the patience for a few of the dresses (maybe since they are really really cute...).  

Midge the Pigeon and Merle the Squirrel

The Pigeon and the Squirrel have recently earned their keep.  

I wasn't going to sell them because I love them so much.  They are one-of-a-kinds and an original design.  I figured it was time to part with them as they've only been sitting in the closet.  After our beach vacation in August, I added the crab and jellyfish to the collection (also just sitting in the closet).  So I listed Midge the Pigeon and Merle the Squirrel in my shop and hoped they would be well received.

Over the weekend, shortly after their listing, a fellow Etsy-ian contacted me about including them, along with several other items listed, in her handmade shop in Lexington, Kentucky!  I was shocked (and rather proud).  This is my first request for wholesale.  She said she loved Midge and Merle - and thus they've earned their keep, even if they haven't sold yet.

Other requested items include the Big Girl Bags and the Little Lunchbox Lovenotes!  

My other thoughts about the request?  I've gotta get sewing because that is a lot of work!

Big McLove

OK, Tiny McSmall, you win a coveted spot on this blog under "inspiration" AND "where I would love to shop"  That how much I love this website.

I recently discovered that some of my work was featured on a blog called Mama Said Shop. When I started hunting around (great site by the way) I found Tiny McSmall.  I spent the next 30 minutes engrossed in their site, letting the kids rip apart the house.  

I suppose I really like the clothes because I love simple and understated for little girls.  They are not unlike the things I try to make for Plainly Jane.   But, I also like Tiny McSmall because all items are made in the US or Europe by artisans and designers who are themselves parents.

New in the shop...

I've been trying to concentrate my efforts lately by making multiples of the same thing, just with different prints.  And yes, I am using brand new fabric.  Its slim pickin's at the thrift stores lately so I figured I'd find some new material for once.  The above is one of the Front Pocket Blouses I have in the shop.  Honestly, I almost kept this one.

Recycled Sweaters

Last month, I started turning adult-sized wool sweaters into baby and toddler felted-wool sweaters and coats.  I love watching a gigantic sweater emerge from the wash as a 2T, cutting that sweater apart, and sewing it back together with elements from other sweaters or woolen items. Most of these creations you won't see on Etsy so I thought I'd show them here.

New Inspiration

Who couldn't help but love a face this sweet?  And the dress...  so so cute.  This book is on the way to my mailbox as I write.  I love new inspiration like this.  For those of you who don't know, Japanese pattern books like this are written in, well, Japanese.  I don't know a lick of Japanese, but I could look at the pictures and schematics forever, making each piece in my mind.  I would much rather follow a Japanese pattern than an American pattern - they get right to the point and draw everything out for me.

So, a few more pictures from the book to drool over before it arrives in my hot little hands.  Maybe you'll see a new little dress for Livy next week, or even something for the shop...

Seven Sticky Pairs of Shoes

I must have been in a really crafty mood when I started this.  Seven pairs of baby shoes - each a little different.  I generally sew all layers together, but it takes a mighty long time with lots of room for error.  So, I tried something new this time.  I used a heat bond product to adhere the layers of fabric together.  "I am so crafty", I thought, "and I'll save so much time."  Neither were true.

It turns out that sewing through heat bond leaves "sticky" on your machine needle which causes skipped stitches and frayed thread.  Who knew?  I thought thats what heat bond was for - adhering applique pieces to a base to be sewn through at a later time.  I must be doing something  horribly wrong.  Does anyone know what I've done wrong?  You would be saving me from 7 pairs of handstitched shoes.

The Store is Open, and now so is the Blog

I figured that since I've been selling the things I make on Etsy and other places, I should have a place to document my current projects and ideas. I have a blog already but I haven't used it much lately. I suppose it was much more for exploring the materials I find at the thrift stores and the vintage fabric that I just love. This blog will be oriented more toward what I've made with those findings and what might be in the works.

My goal is to update this blog often, even if its just with a picture. Feel free to comment - I love comments.